Hair Dyes Sensitization and Cross-Reactions: Challenges and Solutions: A Systematic Review of Hair Dye Allergens' Prevalence.

Widespread use of oxidative hair dyes during the past decades has raised questions on the potential allergy reactions and their management, as well as prevention measures for both professionals and consumers. Allergic contact dermatitis can be elicited by various hair dye-related allergens, though the main problem remains with p-phenylenediamine and related aromatic amines. If allergy is suspected, patch testing identifies the responsible hapten. Individuals sensitized to specific permanent hair dyes substances should avoid the exposure to these chemicals, but also be aware of possible cross-sensitization to other similar compounds. Cross-reactions detected in patch-tested populations indicate that one cannot safely use alternatives, although cross-reactivity is not always clinically relevant. An open application hair dye allergy self-test is recommended by manufacturers for early detection of allergy predisposition in consumers, although the lack of standardized conditions makes the efficacy of this process doubtful. Appropriate use of hand gloves, especially nitrile, is the most efficient prevention measure for professional hand eczema. In this systematic review, we focus on cross-reactions among hair dye-related allergens and make an attempt to answer some, frequently encountered by physicians, questions, while presenting the prevalence of the hair dye-related allergens.

Surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy enables confirmatory detection of dyes on hair submerged in hypolimnion water for up to twelve weeks.

Difficulties in the localization of bodies of homicidal or drowning victims in natural water result in their submergence for weeks if not months. Water insects and microbes drastically change the body's appearance, which significantly changes the determination of a victim's identity. DNA analysis is commonly used for identifying the decedent; however, this PCR-based approach is time-consuming and destructive of the evidence. Considering that nearly half of the people in the world dye their hair with a variety of permanent and semi-permanent dyes, one can expect that confirmatory identification of dyes on the body's hair can be used to shed light on the victim's identity. A growing body of evidence suggests that surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy (SERS) can be used to detect and identify hair dyes. In this study, we investigated the extent to which SERS could be used to detect black and blue, permanent and semi-permanent dyes on hair submerged in hypolimnion water for up to twelve weeks. We found that SERS enabled 100% accurate identification of analyzed dyes on hair submerged in hypolimnion water for up to 8 weeks, whereas, on average, 87% accurate identification of the hair dyes could be achieved on hair exposed for 10 weeks and 50% for hair exposed 12 weeks in hypolimnion water. We also found that the aqueous environment caused progressive fading of some dyes, whereas other dyes showed substantial spectral transformations after prolonged submergence. Finally, we found that changes in the intensity of vibrational bands of dyes could be used to predict the duration of submergence of colored hair in hypolimnion water.

Bioinspired peptides designed for hair perming and dyeing with potential for repair.

Cosmetics for perming hair are commonly used but have negative impacts on hair fibers. Repairing damaged hair with conditioners, hair oil, and hair masks can provide relief but cannot prevent injuries. Recent research has shown that proteins and amino acids can remodel hair's disulfide bonds. However, the permeation ability of proteins is limited, and amino acids may disrupt the secondary structure of hair keratins. Our study demonstrates that peptides can be safely, efficiently, and promisingly used for hair perming. A bioinspired peptide, PepACS (PepA-PepC-SPB), was designed through bioinformatics. It can interact with keratin's sulfhydryl group in situ to remodel disulfide bonds without affecting hair fiber's tensile properties. The potential of PepACS to repair cuticle injuries is also observed through scanning electron microscope visualization. Besides, linking PepACS with mCherry enables hair dyeing. This research suggests that biomaterials can be applied in the hair care industry. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: Chemical perming products can have negative impacts on people's health and hair fibers, making it essential to explore alternative methods. Peptides treatment is a promising option, but synthesizing sulfur-rich short peptides for hair perming has not been demonstrated before. In this paper, we utilized bioinformatics to design bio-inspired peptides that can interact with hair keratins and form curled shapes. Our study demonstrates that bioinformatics tools can be utilized to design bioinspired peptides with unique functions. Sulfur-rich short peptides can be heterologously expressed with fusion strategies, and PepACS can securely bind hair fibers through disulfide bonds. Importantly, perming hair with 0.01% PepACS maintains the mechanical properties of hair, and dyeing hair with the fusion protein PepACS_mCh can be facilitated by ethanol. These findings suggest that the strategy of perming and dyeing hair through peptides is non-injurious, and the peptides used for repairing hair damage show tremendous potential.

Micellar enhanced chromatographic separation of selected hazardous chemical present in hair dye and their detection in formulations and swab, including assessment of damage caused to cuticle of hair shaft.

Hydroquinone (HQ), resorcinol (RS), m-aminophenol (m-AMP) and p-phenylenediamine (p-PPD) are aromatic compounds which are generally used in hair dyes to provide different colours to hair. In European Union the concentrations of HQ, RS, m-AMP and p-PPD is regulated in hair dyes and other cosmetic products by EU commission regulation EU/2019/831. This legislation is generally exercised because all these compounds are toxic and may cause severe allergies when used regularly. However in India no such regulations exist to monitor these toxic compounds in hair dyes therefore in this study a simple, rapid, economical and ecofriendly micellar liquid chromatographic (MLC) technique has been developed which can monitor all the selected toxic compounds simultaneously. HQ and RS are positional isomers and are difficult to be separated by HPLC whereas with the developed MLC method it was well separated and detected. The developed MLC technique has been applied to detect and quantify selected analytes in oxidative and non-oxidative hair dyes and swab samples from the scalp. The simultaneous separation of selected analytes was performed in mobile phase 0.09 M SDS, 0.01 M NaH2PO4-2% v/v 1-butanol at pH 7 running through C18 column under isocratic mode at 1 mL/min. flow rate. All the analytes were eluted within 6 min. The present method has been validated following the EURCHEM Guideline, 2014 in terms of calibration range (0.08-15 µg/mL), limit of detection (0.01-0.09 µg/mL), limit of quantification (0.08-0.35 µg/mL), accuracy (<5.6%), precision (91-105%) and robustness (<5.8%). The selected compounds in hair dye formulation were found in the range of 0.06-12.2 µg/mL (when diluted 25 times). Hair dyes persistence study was conducted up to 10 days from the day of application on the scalp, suggesting that the dyes were not completely washed off and were retained on the scalp for more than one week. SEM analysis of dyed hair revealed that hair are severely damaged due to use of dyes. The advantage of the developed method is that it could easily be adopted by quality control and cosmetic laboratories for quality control and check for the simultaneous separation of positional isomers together with two other aromatic compounds.

Systematic review on skin adverse effects of important hazardous hair cosmetic ingredients with a focus on hairdressers.

BACKGROUND: The burden of occupational hand eczema in hairdressers is high, and (partly strong) allergens abound in the hair cosmetic products they use. OBJECTIVES: To systematically review published evidence concerning contact allergy to an indicative list of active ingredients of hair cosmetics, namely, p-phenylenediamine (PPD), toluene-2,5-diamine (PTD), persulfates, mostly ammonium persulfate (APS), glyceryl thioglycolate (GMTG), and ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), concerning the prevalence of sensitization, particularly in terms of a comparison (relative risk; RR) between hairdressers and non-hairdressers. METHODS: Following a PROSPERO-registered and published protocol, eligible literature published from 2000 to February 2021 was identified, yielding 322 publications, and extracted in standardized publication record forms, also considering risk of bias. RESULTS: Based on 141 publications, the contact allergy prevalence to PPD was 4.3% (95% CI: 3.8-4.9%) in consecutively patch tested patients. Other ingredients were mostly tested in an aimed fashion, yielding variable, and partly high contact allergy prevalences. Where possible, the RR was calculated, yielding an average increased sensitization risk in hairdressers of between 5.4 (PPD) and 3.4 (ATG). Additional evidence related to immediate-type hypersensitivity, experimental results, exposures, and information from case reports was qualitatively synthesized. CONCLUSIONS: An excess risk of contact allergy is clearly evident from the pooled published evidence from the last 20 years. This should prompt an improvement in working conditions and product safety.

Hair Dye Ingredients and Potential Health Risks from Exposure to Hair Dyeing.

Given the worldwide popularity of hair dyeing, there is an urgent need to understand the toxicities and risks associated with exposure to chemicals found in hair dye formulations. Hair dyes are categorized as oxidative and nonoxidative in terms of their chemical composition and ingredients. For several decades, the expert panel's Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has assessed the safety of many of the chemicals used in hair dyes; however, a comprehensive review of hair dye ingredients and the risk of exposure to hair dyeing has not been documented. Herein, we review the safety of the various chemicals in oxidative and nonoxidative hair dyes, toxicities associated with hair dyeing, and the carcinogenic risks related to hair dyeing. While many compounds are considered safe for users at the concentrations in hair dyes, there are conflicting data about a large number of hair dye formulations. The CIR expert panel has ratified a number of coloring ingredients for hair dyes and banned a series of chemicals as carcinogenic to animals and unsafe for this application. The use of these chemicals as raw materials for producing hair dyes may result in the synthesis of other contaminants with potential toxicities and increased risk of carcinogenesis. It is an open question whether personal or occupational hair dyeing increases the risk of cancer; however, in specific subpopulations, a positive association between hair dye use and cancer occurrence has been reported. To address this question, a better understanding of the chemical and mechanistic basis of the reported toxicities of hair dye mixtures and individual hair dye ingredients is needed. It is anticipated that in-depth chemical and systems toxicology studies harnessing modern and emerging techniques can shed light on this public health concern in the future.

Fe single atoms anchored on fluorine-doped ultrathin carbon nanosheets for sensitive colorimetric detection of p-phenylenediamine.

Single-atom catalysts have attracted enormous research interest in the field of catalysis owing to their remarkable catalytic activity, excellent stability and outstanding atom utilization. Herein, a new single atom based on single Fe atoms on fluorine-doped (Fe-SAs@FNC) ultrathin carbon nanosheets was successfully synthesized by a polymer-assisted heating method. Experimental evidence showed that the resultant Fe-SAs@FNC with Fe-N4 sites exhibits superior peroxidase-like activity, which oxidizes the colorless 3,3',5,5'-tetramethylbenzidine (TMB) to produce a blue product in the presence of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). Based on this, an ultrasensitive and highly selective colorimetric detection method for p-phenylenediamine (PPD) in hair dyes and PPD in hair after dyeing was established, which had a wide linear range (0.2-50 µM) and low detection limit (0.07 µM). This method shows satisfactory sensitivity and selectivity.

Highly sensitive and rapid detection of resorcinol by forming fluorescent azamonardine with dopamine.

We propose a sensitive, selective, and rapid fluorescent assay for detecting resorcinol (RC) based on its specific chemical reaction with dopamine. Under alkaline condition, RC would react with dopamine to yield fluorescent azamonardine, which emits strong blue fluorescence and has a superior excitation wavelength at 416 nm and an emission wavelength at 461 nm. The azamonardine with a molecular weight of 258.1 confirmed by ICP-MS has a quantum yield of 71.3%. The reaction is completed within 1 min showing great potential for point-of-care testing. This assay showed high sensitivity and had a good relationship between fluorescent intensity at 461 nm and RC concentration (I461 = 106.4 + 93.6*CRC; R2 = 0.9904) over the range of 0-40 µM. More importantly, the assay showed a prominent anti-interference from various substances and even can distinguish RC from its isomers, o-dihydroxybenzene and p-dihydroxybenzene. Finally, our assay successfully quantified RC contents in wheat powder and hair dyes with high accuracy.

Investigations on detoxification mechanisms of novel para-phenylenediamine analogues through N-acetyltransferase 1 (NAT-1).

Para-phenylenediamine (PPD) is one of the most used chemicals in oxidative hair dyes. However, its use has been associated with adverse effects on health, including contact dermatitis and other systemic toxicities. Novel PPD derivatives have been proposed as a safer replacement for PPD. This can be achieved if these molecules minimally permeate the skin and/or are easily metabolised by enzymes in the skin (e.g., N-acetyltransferase-1 (NAT-1)) into innocuous compounds before gaining systemic entry. This study investigated the detoxification pathway mediated by NAT-1 enzymes on 6 synthesized PPD analogues (namely, P1-P6) with different chemical properties, to study the role of functional groups on detoxification mechanisms in HaCaT skin cells. These compounds were carefully designed with different chemical properties (whereby the ortho position of PPD was substituted by nucleophile and electrophile groups to promote N-acetylation reactions, metabolism and clearance). Compounds P2-P4 N-acetylated at 54-49 nmol/mg/min, which is 1.6 times higher than N-acetylation of PPD, upregulated NAT-1 activity from 8-7% at 50 µM to 22-11% at 100 µM and showed 4 times higher rate of elimination (k equal to 0.141 ± 0.016-0.124 ± 0.01 h-1) and 3 times faster rate of clearance (0.172 ± 0.007-0.158 ± 0.005 h-1mgprotein-1) than PPD (0.0316 ± 0.0019 h-1, 0.0576 ± 0.003 h-1mg protein-1, respectively). The data suggest that nucleophile substituted compounds detoxify at a faster rate than PPD. Our metabolic and detoxification mechanistic studies revealed significantly higher rates of N-acetylation, NAT-1 activity and higher detoxification of P2-P4 in keratinocytes, suggesting the importance of nucleophilic groups at the ortho position in PPD to reduce toxicity of aniline-based dyes on human skin cells.

Safety Assessment of 2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine, which is reported to function as an oxidative hair dye ingredient. The Panel reviewed relevant animal and human data provided in this safety assessment, and concluded that 2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine is safe in the present practices of use and concentration for use in oxidative hair dye formulations.

Surface-enhanced Raman Scattering and X-ray Fluorescence Analyses of a Single Hair Colored with a Hair Dye Product.

This paper describes a method for obtaining information that can contribute to individual identification from a single hair colored with a hair dye product using a combination of surface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) and X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analyses. SERS and XRF spectra of single hog hairs colored with several commercially available hair dye products were measured. SERS spectral patterns tended to be different depending on the hair dye products used for hair coloring. However, SERS spectral patterns of single hog hairs colored with different hair dye products that would produce similar types of dyes were similar. By performing XRF analysis, characteristic metallic elements originating from some hair dye products were detected. Therefore, XRF can contribute to identifying the difference among colored hairs that cannot be identified only by SERS. SERS and XRF analyses of a single shed hair can contribute to individual identification used in forensic science.

Porosity at Different Structural Levels in Human and Yak Belly Hair and Its Effect on Hair Dyeing.

Yak belly hair was proposed as a cheap substitute for human hair for the development of hair dyes, as its chemical composition closely resembles human hair in Raman spectroscopy. The absence of melanin in yak belly hair also leads to a strong reduction of fluorescence in Raman measurements, which is advantageous for the investigation of the effectivity of hair dyes. To assess the suitability for replacing human hair, we analyzed similarities and differences of both hair types with a variety of methods: Raman spectroscopy, to obtain molecular information; small-angle X-ray scattering to determine the nanostructure, such as intermediate filament distance, distance of lipid layers and nanoporosity; optical and scanning electron microscopy of surfaces and cross sections to determine the porosity at the microstructural level; and density measurements and tensile tests to determine the macroscopic structure, macroporosity and mechanical properties. Both types of hair are similar on a molecular scale, but differ on other length scales: yak belly hair has a smaller intermediate filament distance on the nanoscale. Most striking is a higher porosity of yak belly hair on all hierarchical levels, and a lower Young's modulus on the macroscale. In addition to the higher porosity, yak belly hair has fewer overlapping scales of keratin, which further eases the uptake of coloring. This makes, on the other hand, a comparison of coloring processes difficult, and limits the usefulness of yak belly hair as a substitute for human hair.

Influence of hair treatments on detection of antiretrovirals by mass spectrometry imaging.

Analysis of drugs in hair by mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) has great potential as an objective, long-term measure of medication adherence. However, the fidelity of the chemical record in hair may be compromised by any cosmetic hair treatments. Here, we investigate infrared matrix-assisted laser desorption electrospray ionization (IR-MALDESI) MSI response to multiple antiretrovirals (ARVs) in cosmetically treated hair. Hair strands from patients on different ARV regimens were mechanically treated with dye, bleach, and relaxer. The treatments had little or no effect relative to untreated controls for cobicistat, abacavir, dolutegravir, maraviroc, efavirenz, and darunavir, but all three treatments removed emtricitabine (FTC) to undetectable levels from patient hair strands. We also evaluated hair strands by IR-MALDESI MSI from 8 patients on FTC-based regimens who reported a range of hair treatments at varying recency prior to hair collection. While FTC was undetectable in the treated portion of these hair strands, ARVs coadministered with FTC remained detectable in hair strands after treatment. We conclude that IR-MALDESI MSI can be used when measuring adherence to ARV therapy, provided that ARVs other than FTC are targeted in people using hair treatments.

Interfacial Assembly of Metal-Phenolic Networks for Hair Dyeing.

Fast and facile coating strategies play a key role in surface engineering and functionalization of materials for various applications. Herein, we report a rapid and eco-friendly hair dyeing process for natural gray hair via the formation of metal-phenolic networks (MPNs). MPNs composed of gallic acid display high performance, and the coloration is tunable by varying the metal ion types. MPN-based hair dyeing is tolerant to repeated washing (at least 50 times) with detergent solution without color fading and can be discolored in acidic solution (pH < 2). The mechanism of self-assembled MPNs for hair dyeing is investigated by Raman and UV-vis absorption spectroscopy. Cell studies in vitro and skin toxicity tests in vivo demonstrate the advantages (i.e., biocompatibility and hair regrowth) of MPNs for hair dyeing compared to p-phenylenediamine. The reported strategy for hair dyeing avoids the use of toxic substances present in common hair dyes and has negligible damage to the hair structures and tensile strength.

Use of protective gloves by hairdressers: A review of efficacy and potential adverse effects.

Occupational hand eczema is common among hairdressers, and protective gloves are important in limiting exposure to irritants and allergens. Various glove types may differ in their protective ability, and their use may lead to hand eczema due to skin irritancy and allergy. MEDLINE was searched for studies investigating permeation of gloves to irritants and allergens used in the hairdressing trade, as well as adverse effects of glove use affecting hairdressers. Forty-four studies were identified; nine reported on permeation. Of those, two in vitro studies found nitrile rubber (NR) gloves to give the best protection when handling hair dyes. Polyethylene (PE) gloves had the lowest reported break-through time. The prevalence of sensitization to rubber materials in European hairdressers was as follows: thiuram mix, median 2.5% (range 0%-8.2%), weighted average 3.0% (95% confidence interval [CI] 3.0%-3.1%); mercapto mix, median 0.4% (range 0%-3.3%), weighted average 0.5% (95% CI 0.47%-0.50%), mercaptobenzothiazole, median 0.6% (range 0%-6.6%), weighted average 0.7% (95% CI 0.6%-0.7%), NRL-type I allergy, median 1.3% (range 1%-16.4%), weighted average 4.0% (95% CI 3.6%-4.5%). In conclusion, NR gloves provide the best skin protection for hairdressers, although natural rubber latex (NRL) and polyvinylchloride (PVC) gloves may be sufficient in most cases. PE gloves are not recommended. Synthetic rubber gloves with low or no levels of accelerators are preferred.

Assessment of p-aminophenol oxidation by simulating the process of hair dyeing and occurrence in hair salon wastewater and drinking water from treatment plant.

This work reports the study of oxidation reaction of p-aminophenol (PAP) in ammoniacal medium in dissolved atmospheric oxygen and hydrogen peroxide, simulating the process of hair dyeing with permanent dyes. The products formed, which included semi-quinoneimine radical, quinoneimine, dimers, trimers and tetramers, were identified by mass spectrometry, infrared spectroscopy, UV-vis spectrophotometry, and nuclear magnetic resonance of hydrogen. The process was found to involve an autoxidation mechanism. The mutagenicity of the products was carried out by Salmonella Typhimurium YG1041 assay, and the results indicated no mutagenic properties. The presence of PAP and its oxidative products in samples of wastewater collected from hairdressing salon effluent (WW), raw river water (RRW), and water inlet and outlet of drinking water treatment plant (DWTP) was analyzed by HPLC-DAD. PAP was detected in the collected samples of WW, water samples from DWTP (before and after treatment), at concentrations of 2.1 ± 0.5 mg L-1, 1.9 ± 0.3 × 10-3 mg L-1 and 1.3 ± 0.2 × 10-3 mg L-1, respectively. The reaction products, including dimers, trimers and tetramers were identified only in the WW sample; this shows that both the precursor in the sample and its derivatives were released into the wastewater.